EVOLVING FASHION ADVERTISING

The world has changed, and so has advertising. The complex calculus of fashion advertising in the digital world. #by BAZAAR, Dec 2019

Last season, Tommy Hilfiger launched Tommy Jeans Outdoor with a unique marketing approach. Instead of blatantly posting products on the official site for sale, they sent hidden URLs to select influencers, allowing only them to purchase the items. The products were special, but so was the exclusive sales approach (though some influencers did share the URLs with their followers). Without any traditional advertising, this unique selling method made Tommy Jeans Outdoor an object of desire, even if only briefly. This is just one example, but recent digital advertising is becoming more complex than we can imagine.

Recently, global consulting firm McKinsey and British fashion media BoF (Business of Fashion) published the '2019 Fashion Report'. One of the interesting forecasts in the report was that while 2018 was the 'Year of Reckoning' for digital shock, this year would be a 'Year of Awakening', embracing digital innovation technology and seeking opportunities rather than just survival. As consumers increasingly rely on social media rather than store staff or brand advertisements, brands need new marketing strategies. Look at Burberry's swift adaptation to SNS marketing. Since Riccardo Tisci took over, all marketing strategies have been directed at social media. For his first Burberry show, he set up guerrilla-style billboards featuring just the logo, not the clothes, in unconventional locations like Shelter Island Sunset Beach and Itaewon Gyeongridan-gil. Of course, we encountered these new Burberry billboards in the world of SNS, thanks to our connected 'popular' digital friends who did not miss capturing and uploading them.

Additionally, Burberry took the next step in 'See Now, Buy Now' by selling some items from Tisci's first Burberry collection on Instagram and WeChat for 24 hours. If the much-rumored Instagram shopping app IG Shopping (where you can browse and purchase products directly from sellers you follow) launches this year, digital marketing will become even more meticulous and fierce. Trend-savvy Calvin Klein also plans to focus on digital advertising from February, proclaiming 'Digital First!'. They are producing ads that are seemingly not ads, in collaboration with new trend leaders known as influencers. Balenciaga, which is undergoing a complete transformation, presented a grotesque video art advertisement for the 2019 S/S season, stating that they wanted to "discomfort the viewer." It was an ad optimized for SNS, compelling anyone who saw the feed to pause and take notice. Furthermore, even advertising models are becoming 'digitalized' these days. We have already experienced the impact of digital influencers like Lil Miquela (@lilmiquela) and 3D virtual models like Shudu (@shudu.gram) on fashion advertising. In conclusion, the calculus of advertising in the digital world has become more complex.

According to another report by McKinsey, more than half of recent luxury consumers make purchase decisions based on what they see and hear online. Supporting this finding, it has been revealed that 50% of global luxury market consumers are under 30. This new consumer group pursues 'New Luxury,' a concept different from traditional luxury. According to data analyzed by online fashion magazine Highsnobiety, New Luxury will be defined by new knowledge, uniqueness, and personalization, rather than price, exclusivity, and customization, which were associated with traditional luxury. Moreover, the New Luxury generation wants to share their consumption experiences through SNS. It seems only natural that today's fashion advertising industry has evolved to meet these demands. For reference, the New Luxury brands listed in Highsnobiety's report include Off-White and Yeezy. With such a dramatic shift in the concept of luxury, it’s only logical that advertising has also changed accordingly!

Sourced by harpersbazaar.co.kr

Credit Editor | Lee Jin-sun Photos | Tommy Jeans, Burberry, Calvin Klein, Balenciaga